We’re at the 118th Epiphany celebration in Tarpon Springs. It is the largest commemoration in the Western Hemisphere of Jesus Christ’s baptism in the Jordan River, and last year drew 20,000 spectators.
The Orthros service began at 8 a.m. at St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Cathedral followed by the Divine Liturgy. Around noon, clergy, parishioners in traditional garb and spectators will begin the procession to Spring Bayou for the blessing of Tarpon Springs, the highlight of this tradition for many.
That’s when 65 boys from the cathedral will climb into dinghies waiting in the bayou. Another boy is participating but not diving. The Archbishop will bless the waters before tossing a white cross into the water. The boys will dive in and try to retrieve the cross, and whoever finds it is said to receive a year of blessings.
This year the cathedral is hosting the homecoming of His Eminence Archbishop Nikitas of Thyateira and Great Britain, who was born in Tampa and attended Tarpon Springs’ Epiphany as a child. In 1974, he dove into the bayou and retrieved the cross, making this year’s celebration the 50th anniversary of his retrieval.
The ceremony is expected to take place despite stormy weather. Earlier in the week, St. Nicholas spokesperson Johanna Gatzoulis said “weather does not stop our religious event.”
1:29 p.m. Back at the church
John Hittos, when asked how he prepared for the dive, said, “I prayed.” The 16-year-old is a student at Calvary Christian.
“It means a lot,” Hittos said, holding the cross in the cathedral, surrounded by peers.
“I didn’t see where the cross went into the water. I didn’t know where it was. But I had a feeling and I just went down. I couldn’t even see anything but it was in my hand,” he said. “It’s a blessing.”
1:05 p.m. As close as they could get
George Christopoulos came to Tarpon Springs from Toronto with his family to watch the dive. As a boy in Greece, Christopoulos used to participate.
“This is the closest one in North America, so we came down,” Christopoulos said, as divers splashed in a race for the cross. “I brought my girls so they could see it.”
He made a video of John Hittos getting the cross.
— Lauren Peace, Times staff writer
12:57 p.m. The cross is retrieved
John Hittos, 16, has emerged from Spring Bayou with the cross.
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Explore all your options12:35 p.m. On the move
The procession of clergy, Greek dancers, divers, parishioners and spectators have arrived at Spring Bayou to prepare for the cross dive.
12:15 p.m. “It’s about blessings”
The cross dive is certainly the main event for many spectators, it drew 20,000 last year. But Anastasios Damianakis, 18, said the cross dive is more of a religious experience.
“It’s part of the service. It’s not like you’re winning the Super Bowl or anything. It’s about blessings.”
— Tracey McManus, Times staff writer
12:05 p.m. No more chill
Lisa Moerchen cooked soup this morning in preparation for the cold weather.
“But now it looks like we won’t need it,” she laughed, sitting on a tarp with family.
Today is a special one for her family. Her grandsons, Athos Karistinos, 16, and Stasi Karistinos, 18, will be diving for the cross.
The boys’ dad, Anestis Taso, was the cross retriever more than 20 years ago.
“It’s like a family reunion,” Moerchen said of the celebration. “We all know each other and all of the boys have grown up together.”
Moerchen said her grandsons have been preparing for the dive — spiritually and physically — for a long time. But, she joked, they are tight-lipped when it comes to their tactics.
“They won’t tell me what their strategy is,” she said.
— Lauren Peace, Times staff writer
12 p.m. Why don’t girls dive in Tarpon Springs?
If you’re wondering why only boys dive for the cross, Times reporter Tracey McManus wrote in 2019 about why girls are barred from diving with their male peers. The Tarpon Springs parish is one of the few — if not the only — Greek Orthodox churches in the U.S. that affords the honor only to boys.
11:55 a.m. The Holy Spirit
Chloe Kotis, 17, is preparing to lead the procession with the white dove she will release over the bayou, a representation of the Holy Spirit.
“I’m nervous but I feel good. I’m happy to hold something that means so much.”
— Tracey McManus, Times staff writer
11:50 a.m. All the way from Greece
Theo and Popi Vavlas traveled with their children from Kalymnos, Greece, to visit family in Tarpon Springs and celebrate Epiphany.
Theo Vavlas said the celebration looks different here than it does in his family’s hometown. This celebration is bigger, he said. In Kalymnos, there are fewer boats, it’s less of a spectacle.
“We are very excited,” Theo Vavlas said, while sitting crouched on the sidewalk along the water.
— Lauren Peace, Times staff writer
11:43 a.m. Divers are ready
The divers have gathered, barefoot, outside of the church to prepare for the procession to Spring Bayou.
For two brothers, it is the first dive for Luc Boillot, 16, and the last for Andreas Boillot, 18.
Both say even the opportunity to dive for the cross is a privilege.
“It’s really about spreading blessings around the city,” Andreas said.
The tradition also runs deep for their family. The boys’ grandfather is the Rev. Fr. Tryfon Theophilopoulos, the cathedral’s late longtime clergy whose name is on the church hall.
“He’s our grandfather but he’s the pappoús of Tarpon Springs,” Andreas said, saying the word for grandfather in Greek.
— Tracey McManus, Times staff writer
11:32 a.m. A change to the number of divers
Originally, 69 boys were participating in the service this morning, with 68 diving for the cross. Three divers are sick and cannot attend. There will be 65 boys searching for the cross in Spring Bayou and one more participating.
The area around the bayou is filling in with spectators now, all eagerly awaiting the dive.
11:05 a.m. Just like Greece
Laura Layton came to Tarpon Springs from Ocoee with her friend Shirley Parker, who lives in Claremont.
Layton, who grew up in South Africa, is half Greek. After moving to Florida in 1995, she’s taken trips to the area to visit the Sponge Docks.
“I used to bring my mom here because we’d really feel like we were in Greece here,” Layton said. “I love Tarpon Springs.”
Layton attended an Epiphany celebration here years ago. For Parker, this Saturday will mark the first time she’s seen the dive.
— Lauren Peace, Times staff writer
11 a.m. A manatee distraction
Dave and Pam Bracken, both 53, moved to Tarpon Springs from Nebraska 16 years ago to escape the cold. Despite living in town, this is the first Epiphany celebration that Dave has been able to attend.
“It’s exciting that it’s on a weekend because I don’t work,” Dave Bracken said.
Below, in the water, two manatees in the bayou came up for air.
“That’s what makes it easy,” Pam Bracken said. “Watching the manatees while we wait.”
— Lauren Peace, Times staff writer
10:50 a.m. Church service at capacity
Anastasia Giannakouros traveled on a bus with 50 others from The Villages to celebrate Epiphany. When she arrived around 10:30 a.m., she couldn’t attend the church service because the cathedral was at capacity. But she said the cross dive is just as special a tradition, which she also observed in her birthplace of Sparta, Greece.
— Tracey McManus, Times staff writer
10:30 a.m. Slow morning for business
Typically The Bayou Cafe in downtown Tarpon Springs is packed for Epiphany morning as spectators grab coffee or a breakfast scramble before the cross dive.
But the rain made for a slow morning.
Server Melissa Wright said they brought in extra staff in anticipation of the annual rush, but it never came. She said the regulars also skipped out thinking the place would be swarmed, leaving the cafe without even its most loyal customers today.
“I’ve worked many Epiphanies and this is a strange one,” said Wright, a server here for 11 years.
— Tracey McManus, Times staff writer
10:07 a.m. A chilly plunge
A Florida Fish and Wildlife officer told reporter Tracey McManus that the water in Spring Bayou is 65 degrees this morning.
10 a.m. Skies are bluer
About a few dozen people in total are gathered on the grass around Spring Bayou. That’s dwarfed compared to years past when the sun has been out, but as the rain pauses, more people are crawling out of their homes and hotel rooms and walking the sidewalks toward the water.
— Lauren Peace, Times staff writer
9:40 a.m.: A lifelong celebration
Epiphany is a lifelong celebration for many residents.
Andrew Nikiforakis grew up in Tarpon Springs and retrieved the cross during the dive in 1992, when he was 16. Now he volunteers for the church as the dove caretaker.
Normally the supplier, Lakeland’s A Touch Above, delivers the bird to the church on Epiphany morning. But due to the rain, Nikiforfakis picked up the dove yesterday and kept it at his house overnight. He set the cage on his armoire, out of reach from his dog, fed and watered it, and felt the weight of the responsibility.
When the dove is released over Spring Bayou before the cross dive, it represents the Holy Spirit. Nikiforfakis will also help this year’s dove bearer, Chloe Kotis, 17, handle the dove as it moves in the procession with clergy and spectators from the cathedral to the bayou.
“It’s a big responsibility,” Nikiforfakis said. “We’re in charge of the Holy Spirit.”
— Tracey McManus, Times staff writer
9:33 a.m. Spectators are arriving
9:27 a.m. A destination
Peggie Martin and Alexandra Harris huddled together under umbrellas, overlooking the bayou.
The sisters drove hours from Alabama this morning to witness the dive. They left at 5 a.m.
“It just seemed like something you have to see,” Martin said. “We’re happy to be here. I’m not made of sugar. I won’t melt in the rain.”
— Lauren Peace, Times staff writer
9:16 a.m. Their first Epiphany visit
Sisters Nikki and Roni Bailey grew up in Clearwater, but this is their first Epiphany.
“It’s a bucket list item,” Nikki Bailey said. “We had heard about it, but decided it was finally time we come see for ourselves.”
The Bailey’s drove out to Tarpon Springs last night to scope out a spot. They came back this morning and they’re not letting the weather dampen their experience.
“We looked up the meaning of the dive and its history. We’ve gotten really into it,” Roni Bailey said. “The divers are excited to be here so we are too.”
— Lauren Peace, Times staff writer
9 a.m. “It just looks clean”
Outside of Copenhagen Cafe, Nick Gombos, 62, stands and looks out on the cathedral as the rain fluctuates in intensity.
“It doesn’t even look wet, it just looks clean,” Gombos said of the cathedral to a passerby. “It’s clearing up. I bet there will be sun by 11:30.”
“What’s a little water gonna do to you?” the man responds.
“As long as the boys dive! That’s what matters,” Gombos cheers back.
Born and raised in Tarpon Springs, Gombos dove for the cross from 1975 to 1979. ”It shows you how strong your faith is when you come even when it’s raining,” Gombos said. “Nothing will stop the dive.”
— Lauren Peace, Times staff writer
8:56 a.m. The dove
Before the cross dive, a white dove will be released over Spring Bayou to represent the Holy Spirit. This year, Chloe Kotis, 17, was chosen to do that honor as the dove bearer. Right now the dove is waiting for its moment in the cathedral office.
— Tracey McManus, Times staff writer
8:48 a.m. Not worried by the rain
Nomikos Christoforos ducked into Copenhagen Cafe across the street from St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Cathedral just after 8:00 a.m. on Saturday. The pitter-patter of rain echoed outside. Christoforos, 22, first dived for the cross in 2018.
Now, he’s on the Divers Committee, a group of men — most past divers — who help prepare the boys spiritually for the day. “My first year diving, it rained the whole morning. It was cold. But when we got down to the bayou, the sky cleared and the sun came out,” Christoforos said.
He’s not worried about the weather today. Sitting at a table with Christoforos, Michael Achilleas Hollis and Savas Amorginos nodded in agreement. Amorginos first dove in 2005. He’s been involved ever since.
“The divers join the brotherhood whether they retrieve the cross or not,” Amorginos said. “It’s just a blessing to be here.”
— Lauren Peace, Times staff writer
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